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The SCARPA Instinct VS Rock Climbing Shoes are designed for sport climbing and bouldering, catering to climbers who need both sensitivity and support. With a recommended sizing of half a size down from your street shoe, they offer a wider fit that is generally well-received by those with broader feet. However, those with narrower feet might find the toe box a bit too roomy. The shoe’s construction features a stiff yet slightly softer sole than its predecessor, which enhances your ability to feel the rock beneath you. This can be particularly beneficial for climbers seeking precision on small edges and holds.
The use of Vibram XS Edge rubber in the forefoot provides the needed stiffness for standing on thin edges, while the stickier XS Grip 2 rubber in the heel offers excellent grip for heel hooks. An additional large rubber patch on the top of the shoe adds extra coverage for toe hooks. These shoes are made from 100% textile material and can be machine washed for easy care.
They are lightweight at 7 ounces, making them a convenient choice for climbers who prioritize both performance and comfort. While the shoes are highly functional, they may not be the best choice for those with low-volume feet due to the wider toe box. They have been available since 2008 and continue to be a solid option for dedicated climbers looking for reliability and enhanced rock sensitivity.
The Black Diamond Momentum climbing shoes are designed with comfort and versatility in mind, making them a good choice for beginners or climbers who spend extended periods on vertical routes. Their neutral, flat shape supports all-day wear without causing foot fatigue, which is great if you're looking for shoes that prioritize comfort over aggressive performance. The two Velcro straps make it easy to adjust the fit quickly, so you can get a snug but comfortable feel. A soft flex midsole adds sensitivity, helping you feel the rock beneath your feet, while the updated midsole improves edging ability—important if you want a bit more precision on small footholds. The shoe uses 4.3mm rubber, which balances durability with good grip and is molded to maintain consistent performance.
The materials are fully vegan, including a hemp footbed and breathable knit lining, which offer comfort and keep your feet cooler during climbs. Softer toe rands and updated heel rubber geometry improve fit and heel grip, helping with heel hooks and overall tension. Because these shoes have a neutral fit and softer midsole, they might not be the best for aggressive or highly technical climbing where a downturned shape and stiff sole are preferred. While the durability is good for a softer shoe, they may wear faster if used extensively on rough terrain.
These shoes are well suited for climbers focused on comfort, all-day wear, and vertical climbing, but may not satisfy those looking for high-performance edging or steep, overhung routes.
The SCARPA Drago LV Rock Climbing Shoes are designed specifically for sport climbing and bouldering, particularly suiting climbers with low-volume feet, which means they are ideal for those who have long, narrow, and flat feet. One of the standout features is their sensitivity, thanks to a thin midsole and aggressive downturn, making them excellent for steep climbs and technical bouldering, where precise foot placements are crucial. The use of Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber further enhances their performance, providing stiffness and stickiness across various rock types, which is a real plus for climbers tackling overhangs.
The hook and loop closure type allows for quick adjustments, enabling climbers to get a snug fit that is essential for optimal performance. It’s important to note that these shoes are designed to fit tightly and won't stretch much over time, so getting the right size is crucial from the start. The materials are durable, but like many high-performance shoes, they might not be the best choice for all-day wear or casual climbing sessions due to their aggressive fit.
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