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The SCARPA Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoes are specifically designed for sport climbing and bouldering. They are a great fit for lighter climbers who may find stiffer models uncomfortable. With sizing advice suggesting you stick to your street shoe size or even go larger, these shoes address the concern of a non-stretching synthetic upper.
The Vibram XS Grip 2 Rubber sole provides exceptional grip and is well-suited for steep walls and overhanging boulders, thanks to its sticky and slightly stiff nature. A large patch of toe rubber enhances toe hooking and bat hangs, making them versatile for various climbing styles. However, they run small, so proper sizing is crucial to ensure comfort.
The less stiff sole might not be ideal for those who prefer a firmer base or are heavier climbers. These shoes are a solid choice for climbers looking for a balance of sensitivity and support, especially in demanding climbs. The shoes' material and construction reflect durability, although the synthetic upper might not stretch much, impacting long-term fit adjustments.
The Black Diamond Men's Momentum climbing shoes are designed with a flat profile, meaning they don't have a strong downward curve (downturn). This design provides more comfort for beginners or those doing longer climbs where comfort is important rather than aggressive edging. The shoes feature a nylon outer material, which is stretchy and breathable, offering a good fit that molds to your foot over time but might stretch out slightly with use.
They have a simple closure system, likely Velcro or similar, making them easy to put on and take off quickly—ideal for gym climbing or casual outdoor sessions. The shoe’s flat style and focus suggest moderate sole stiffness, suitable for all-around climbing rather than specialized bouldering or steep sport climbs. These shoes are best suited for beginner to intermediate climbers or those focusing on gym and moderate rock climbs rather than high-performance or technical climbing.
With strong customer reviews (4.4 out of 5) and a good reputation in men's climbing shoes, they offer solid value, especially if you prioritize comfort and versatility over aggressive performance. One drawback might be the nylon material's tendency to stretch, which could affect fit over time, and the flat design might not provide the precision advanced climbers seek on steep or overhanging routes.
The SCARPA Drago climbing shoes are designed for sport climbers and boulderers who want high sensitivity and precision on steep, technical routes. They have an aggressive downturn and a thin, stiff Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber sole, which offers excellent grip on overhanging surfaces. The synthetic microfiber upper resists stretching, so the snug fit you get out of the box stays consistent over time, which is great for climbers wanting a reliable fit without frequent adjustments. The PCB Active Rand reduces bulk around the foot, increasing sensitivity and helping you feel tiny footholds better.
These shoes should fit very tight initially, as they won't stretch much, so you may need to size down ½ to 2 sizes compared to your normal shoe size for best performance. They use a slip-on closure system, which makes them easy to put on and take off but offers less adjustability compared to Velcro straps or laces.
The Drago performs exceptionally well for climbers focused on steep climbs and bouldering who need maximum feel and precision, though those looking for more comfort or a looser fit might find them too tight and demanding for long sessions.
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